Feeding crested geckos is one of the easier parts of keeping them, but there are enough details to get wrong that it’s worth understanding the full picture before you start. This guide covers everything from the basics of crested gecko diet powder to live insect supplementation, feeding frequency, and how to tell if your gecko is actually eating.

The Foundation: Crested Gecko Diet Powder

The backbone of a captive crested gecko’s diet is a commercially prepared meal replacement powder, commonly called CGD. These powders are mixed with water to create a soft food that provides a complete nutritional profile without the need to source multiple food types.

CGD was developed specifically for crested geckos and transformed how the hobby approaches their care. Before it existed, keepers fed primarily live insects and pureed fruit, which made consistent nutrition difficult to achieve.

The two most trusted brands are Repashy and Pangea. Both are nutritionally complete and widely used by breeders and hobbyists. Most geckos accept both readily, though individual preference varies. If your gecko refuses one brand, try the other before assuming there is a feeding problem.

Mix CGD to a ketchup-like consistency. Too thick and it dries out quickly. Too watery and it lacks the nutritional density your gecko needs. A ratio of roughly one part powder to two parts water is a good starting point, adjusted slightly based on how your gecko responds.

The Pangea Fruit Mix Complete is one of the most accepted formulas in the hobby and a solid first choice for new keepers.

How Often to Feed

Offer CGD every other day for adults. Juveniles under six months benefit from daily access to food since they are growing rapidly and have smaller energy reserves.

Remove uneaten food after 24 to 36 hours. CGD ferments at room temperature, especially in a humid enclosure, and can make your gecko sick if left too long. Fresh food at every feeding is a non-negotiable habit to build early.

A simple routine works well: mix food in the evening when your gecko becomes active, place the dish in the enclosure, and remove whatever remains the following evening before adding fresh food on feeding nights.

Live Insects

CGD alone is sufficient to keep a crested gecko alive and healthy. But adding live insects to the diet improves growth rates in juveniles, supports reproductive health in breeding females, and provides enrichment that CGD cannot replicate.

Offer insects once or twice per week as a supplement, not a replacement. The best feeder insects for crested geckos are:

  • Small crickets sized to no wider than the gecko’s head
  • Dubia roaches of appropriate size
  • Black soldier fly larvae (also called NutriGrubs or CalciWorms)

Dubia roaches are increasingly popular because they are slower than crickets, easier to contain, odorless, and nutritionally superior. They also cannot climb smooth surfaces or chirp at 2am, which makes them easier to live with.

The Josh’s Frogs Dubia Roach Colony Starter is a good option if you want to maintain a small feeder colony rather than buying insects weekly.

Dust insects with calcium powder at every feeding. Every two weeks, use a multivitamin supplement instead of plain calcium. Vitamin D3 should be included in the supplement if your gecko has no UVB lighting.

Supplements

Calcium is the most important supplement for crested geckos. Without adequate calcium, geckos develop metabolic bone disease, which causes softening of the bones, jaw deformity, and eventually death. It is entirely preventable with proper supplementation.

Use a phosphorus-free calcium powder on all live feeders. Repashy Calcium Plus is a combined calcium and multivitamin supplement that simplifies the routine for keepers who want a single product approach.

CGD already contains calcium and vitamins, so supplementation applies primarily to live feeders rather than the powder diet.

Water

Crested geckos get most of their hydration from licking water droplets off enclosure surfaces after misting. Despite this, always keep a small shallow water dish available. Some geckos drink from standing water regularly, and the dish acts as a backup during periods when misting frequency drops.

Change the water every one to two days to prevent bacterial growth. A bottle cap or small plastic dish works fine.

How to Know If Your Gecko Is Eating

Crested geckos feed at night, which means most keepers rarely watch them eat directly. The easiest way to confirm feeding is to check the food dish after 24 hours. A drop in the food level means the gecko ate.

Other signs of healthy feeding include:

  • Consistent body weight or gradual weight gain in juveniles
  • A rounded, full body profile with no visible hip bones
  • A thick, well-padded tail base
  • Normal activity levels and alertness during evening hours

Weigh juveniles weekly using a small digital kitchen scale. Adults can be weighed monthly. Consistent weight loss over two to three weeks without an obvious cause like shedding or seasonal temperature change warrants closer attention.

When Crested Geckos Refuse Food

Refusal to eat is common and usually not an emergency. The most frequent causes are:

  • Recent relocation: new geckos often fast for one to two weeks while adjusting
  • Shedding: geckos frequently stop eating in the days before and during a shed
  • Temperature: enclosures above 80 or below 65 degrees suppress appetite
  • Seasonal changes: some geckos eat less in winter even in controlled environments
  • Food preference: try a different CGD flavor or brand

A gecko that has been refusing food for more than three weeks, is losing visible body condition, or shows other symptoms alongside the refusal should be evaluated by a reptile vet.

Feeding Juveniles vs Adults

Juvenile crested geckos under six months old grow rapidly and need more frequent feeding than adults. Offer CGD daily and insects two to three times per week. Prioritize smaller, appropriately sized feeders and dust every feeding.

From six months to one year, transition gradually to an every-other-day CGD schedule while maintaining insect supplementation twice weekly.

Adult geckos over one year old do well on CGD every other day and insects once or twice per week. Breeding females need additional calcium and more frequent insect feeding to support egg production.

Treats and Variety

Crested geckos in the wild eat fruit and nectar alongside insects. Some keepers offer small amounts of pureed fruit as an occasional treat. Safe options include mango, papaya, fig, and banana. Avoid citrus, avocado, and anything high in oxalates like spinach.

Fruit treats should be offered no more than once per week and should not replace CGD. They are low in the nutrients crested geckos need and high in sugar that can cause digestive issues in excess.

FAQ

Can I feed my crested gecko only CGD and no insects? Yes. Crested geckos can thrive on CGD alone for their entire lives. Insects are beneficial but not required if you are consistent with a quality complete diet powder.

How do I know what size insects to offer? A common rule is to offer insects no wider than the space between the gecko’s eyes. For most adult crested geckos, this means medium crickets or appropriately sized dubia roaches.

My gecko knocked over the food dish. Does it count as feeding? Crested geckos often move or tip food dishes during feeding. Check for tongue marks or a disturbed surface on the CGD. If the dish was full and is now nearly empty, they ate before tipping it.

Should I feed in a separate container? Some keepers feed live insects in a separate small container to avoid escapees in the enclosure. This works fine but adds a handling step. For CGD, always feed in the enclosure.

How long can CGD sit out before it goes bad? At room temperature in a humid enclosure, CGD begins to ferment within 24 to 36 hours. In cooler or drier conditions it may last slightly longer, but 24 hours is a safe maximum before replacing it.